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Extended warranty

Skip the dealer markup.
Compare warranty plans direct.

Third-party Vehicle Service Contracts cost about 40% less than the same plan in the dealer F&I office. Pick your deductible, term, and coverage level — see a real quote in 60 seconds.

Are warranties worth it?

Free to compare · No obligation · 60 seconds

An extended warranty is a bet on your car's reliability. The math works when you keep the vehicle past the factory bumper-to-bumper window, you drove a make/model with documented expensive failures, and — critically — you didn't pay the dealer's F&I markup. We'll show you real plans from the same underwriters dealers use, without the 80–120% upsell.

~40% cheaper than dealer F&I

Dealers mark up third-party warranties 80–120% in the F&I office. Buying direct from the underwriter cuts the cost by roughly 40% — same coverage, same claims process.

Pick your deductible & term

Most third-party providers let you tune the deductible ($0 / $100 / $200) and term (3–7 years) so the premium matches what you actually need to cover.

Transferable & cancellable

If you sell the car, the warranty transfers to the next owner (adds resale value). If you change your mind in 30 days, it's a full refund — by law in most states.

Should you actually buy one?

Makes sense when

  • You plan to keep the car 5+ years past the factory warranty.
  • The make/model has documented expensive failures (transmission, EV battery, infotainment).
  • You bought used and the bumper-to-bumper is nearly expired.
  • You can't comfortably absorb a $3,500+ repair out of pocket.

Skip it when

  • You plan to sell within the next 2–3 years.
  • The vehicle is a Toyota / Lexus / Honda with documented long-term reliability.
  • The dealer is bundling it into your loan at 80%+ markup. Cancel within 30 days for a refund, then shop direct.
  • The premium exceeds 15% of the car's current resale value.

Frequently asked

Are extended warranties actually worth it?+

Only if (1) you plan to keep the car past the factory bumper-to-bumper warranty, (2) the vehicle has a documented track record of expensive failures (transmission, infotainment, EV battery), and (3) you bought outside the dealer F&I office. Run the math: median warranty cost vs. median out-of-pocket repair cost for your make/model. We have a full breakdown in our Extended Warranty guide.

What's the difference between a manufacturer warranty and a service contract?+

The manufacturer's bumper-to-bumper / powertrain coverage is included with the vehicle and backed by the OEM. An 'extended warranty' is technically a Vehicle Service Contract (VSC) — sold by a third-party administrator, can be added any time before the OEM coverage expires.

Should I buy at the dealership or shop independently?+

Independently — almost always. Dealer F&I offices mark up the same VSC by 80–120%. The exact same plan from the same underwriter is typically 40% cheaper when bought direct online. The only reason to buy at the dealer is if you're rolling it into the loan to keep one payment.

What does a typical plan cover?+

Standard 'powertrain' plans cover engine, transmission, drive axles. 'Stated component' plans add electrical, A/C, fuel system, brakes. 'Exclusionary' (bumper-to-bumper) plans cover almost everything except wear items (tires, brakes, wipers). Read the exclusions list before signing — that's where the value lives or dies.

Can I cancel my warranty after I buy it?+

Yes. Federal and most state law gives you a 30-day full-refund window. After that, you can usually cancel pro-rated minus a $25–$75 cancellation fee. If you sell the car, transfer it (adds resale value) or cancel for a partial refund.

Get a warranty quote without the dealer markup.

Same underwriters, same coverage, ~40% lower premium. See your quote in 60 seconds — no commitment.

Free · No obligation · 60 seconds

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